Many people want to help their ducklings hatch. It is best to allow them to do the hatching themselves. The only time you want to help them is when they make a hole and then cannot progress because they are stuck in that spot. If an actual hole is made, and you can see the duckling, but no progress is made for 12 hours, you can gingerly help the duckling. If blood appears where you break pieces off the shell, stop and wait several hours. If the duckling gets stuck after it has started to break a circle around the egg, it can usually be helped without a problem. But if they are progressing on their own, let them be.

The USDA’s grading service is voluntary; egg packers who request it, pay for it…

What Are Egg Grades?
There are three consumer grades for eggs: U.S. Grade AA, A, and B. The grade is determined by the interior quality of the egg and the appearance and condition of the egg shell. Eggs of any quality grade may differ in weight (size).

U.S. Grade AA eggs have whites that are thick and firm; yolks that are high, round, and practically free from defects; and clean, unbroken shells. Grade AA and Grade A eggs are best for frying and poaching where appearance is important, and for any other purpose.

U.S. Grade A eggs have characteristics of Grade AA eggs except that the whites are “reasonably” firm. This is the quality most often sold in stores.

U.S. Grade B eggs have whites that may be thinner and yolks that may be wider and flatter than eggs of higher grades. The shells must be unbroken, but may show slight stains. This quality is seldom found in retail stores because they are usually used to make liquid, frozen, and dried egg products…

As an egg ages, the white becomes thinner and the yolk becomes flatter.

Very few duck farmers (we know of none) actually go through or pay for the USDA grading process. The reason for this is that duck farmers do not have the mass production of typical large scale chicken farms. The good news is that our duck eggs are fresher than most eggs you’ll ever find in a store. You’re getting them directly from the farm. Our animals are treated well and all accepted sanitary procedures are followed.

Small ducks need warmth (they can’t supply it themselves). You need to buy or make a “brooder” for their warmth and protection.

To make one yourself, get a big box and hang a light bulb in there that is close enough to give off some heat but not so close that the little guy can get burnt. Don’t let him touch it. The box should be big enough so that the little guy can move closer to the heat when he is warm and move away from the heat when he is too hot. He’ll find his own comfort level. Always be careful about placing lights and electrical wires safe and secure to prevent fires.

The best “bedding” is an old bath towel. Don’t use hay or straw. It just sticks to them and is harder to clean. Don’t use newspaper either as they tend to be unable to get their footing and sometimes this causes “splayed legs” (Good footing when they are small helps their legs to develop more properly).

Since ducklings hatched in captivity are separated from their natural mom, they should not be placed in water for too long at all and especially without constant supervision. Instinctually they love playing in the water, but since their oil glands are not able to produce enough oil to keep them afloat they’ll drown easily. In nature baby ducklings get their water resistant oils from their moms until they are five or six weeks old and their own oil glands begin to function. The bottom line is that baby ducks love to swim but without mom around are vulnerable to drowning and chills. They don’t need to swim to survive at all.

At the same time, baby ducklings do need lots of water with their food as they must have water to swallow. Due to the issues in the previous paragraph, you must devise a way for them to drink lots of water without diving into their drinking water. They can drown in that too. The best method I’ve ever seen is to cut a small hole in the side of a plastic milk carton that is big enough for them to put their head into but make the hole too small for them to jump through it. Then fill it with water just up to that hole. You’ll have to change the water often as they will dirty it up daily (with food). You may have to teach them how to find the water in the beginning by pushing their heads in their a few times but once they figure it out, they will go back and forth between their food and water constantly. Once they start eating it seems like they never stop.

Regarding feed… go to a local feed store and ask for “unmedicated chicken mash”. Basically this is mashed up chicken feed. It is important to ask for “unmedicated” brands as ducklings eat a lot more than chicks and will poison themselves on the medicated brands. They don’t need the medication like chicks do. They actually can be quite hardy once they begin growing up.

Lastly, remember that you are your duckling’s protector. The most common cause of death in pet ducklings (and ducks for that matter) is an attack by a predator. Ducklings have no real defense mechanism and are vulnerable to pet dogs or cats or a stray neighborhood pet. You need to be conscious of any animals around their environment and keen to provide protection. It only takes a few seconds for a playful larger animal or predator to kill your ducklings.